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Ethnic Indian Sarees :: Chanderi Sarees

Written by: Bindu Lakshmi Kankipati - Published: 02-Jun-2017

Exotic fragrance of Jasmine and my luxurious Chanderi

Chanderi town is a highly renowned for its rich heritage, surrounded by hills southwest of the Betwa River in Ashoknagar district, Madhya Pradesh state, India Well known for the handwoven traditional sarees, these are mostly popular for the elite class and favorable choice of Queens in India as they are a bit expensive and one can see major center of Jain culture. Artisan community involved in the production of "Chanderi silk", a diverse mix of various communities namely Kohlis and the Muslim Julaha community. Traditional weaving culture was available during 13th century, Initially, the weavers were Muslims, later in 1350 the Koshti weavers from Jhansi migrated to Chanderi and settled here, during the Mughal period, Chanderi fabric business been recognize and started booming. The production of Chanderi has been protected by India as a Geographic Indication (GI). Official Languages of Chanderi is Hindi and Bundelkhandi. The main occupation of the people of Chanderi is handicraft.

Chanderi fabric is available in three mediums namely:

  • Pure Chanderi silk
  • Chanderi cotton
  • Chanderi silk cotton

The versatility of Chanderi fabric is infinity, adopting to new innovations is a key to any rapidly growing business, agony of weavers in passed years, the weavers have do themselves all-in-one work, from dyeing to marketing, later years Government started co-operative societies and they appointed fashion technology students, to design as per the latest trends, to provide the weavers particular trend knowledge based on season, current trends, fashionable wear as per the market and now it's all histroy.

Chanderi sarees are well illustrious for gold and silver zari. About the loom, Now a days they use Fly-shuttle looms are used and they are operated by a single weaver. Depending on the complexity of the design, it may take 3 to 7 days to weave one masterpiece Chanderi saree. Mind blowing colors such as cat black, royal blue, parrot Green, burnt orange, pure white, cherry red, striking summer yellow and neon yellow, pista green, deep maroon, silver grey, sky blue and soft pastel colors such as white, beige, tan or goldw hich goes crazy for any saree lover. Stunning Chanderi is on board for high runway fashion these days, never the less latest wear of pop-up bright colors that are perfect blend of elegance, combination of shades which goes mad on heals such as neon green with magenta, charcoal grey with deep royal blue, bright orange with rose pink, Turquoise-red with sky blue, dark blue with mustard color, rani pink plain saree with little tulip motifs, all these color palette looks extremely stunning!

What I really think before shopping a saree is it 'Easy to drape'? So Chanderi is my loved saree, its very comfortable and easy to drape. Motifs used in Chanderi saris are more intricate.Pallu(falling edge of the saree) is decorated heavily with gold or silver zari the motifs which are beautifully depicted namely peacock wings, gold Lotus motif, traditional coin motifs, diamond motif, oval zari motifs and Paisley motif which are commonly seen. Chanderi silk cotton sarees display various beautifully striking motifs that are gold coins(asharfi buti), Swans(hamsa), leaves, raw mango, Meena Buti, Kalgi, Ghoongra, Khajura, dunaliya, Iknaliya Buti, Iknaliya Buti, chevron, peacock , Popat Kunjar(parrot motifs), lotus motif(kamal), Jasmine motif, elephant, Muthada(geometrical shape), akhrot bhat(walnut motifs), diamond Bhat, pan bhaat(leaf design), Chokdi Bhat(Chok means courtyard square) endless!

Most popular borders of Chanderi are:

  • Ganga Jamani(two different colour borders) in the same saree.
  • Adda border which consists of a highly intricate design
  • Plain zari Patela border
  • Chanderi Nakshi border, except for the outline of the border pattern which is done with a different coloured thread
  • Piping border has one colour interspersed with thin strips of another colour

I am very passionate to see varies products in Chanderi fabric from the local market, here you go, the list begins gorgeous Chanderi sarees, stoles, salwar kameez(Indian dress) Indo-western dresses, tunics, tops, blouse pieces and their is no end!

How to identify authentic Chanderi saree:

  • The saree is glossy transparency and light weight, thin and soft
  • The fabric sheer texture is neither coarse or soft, delicate texture
  • Chanderi saree specialty of this fabric is which has a shimmering texture.

Fabric care:

  • Good to give for dry wash.
  • Mild detergent for washing at home, soak for about few minutes and instantly wash it
  • Chanderi saree or fabric, once wash cycle is done, dry the fabric in shade
  • No to direct sunrise, to protect fabrics from UV radiation