TALES 》 Paithani Cotton and Silk Sarees
Priceless intricacies of Paithani sarees
The art of weaving Paithani flourished during the 'Satvahana era' in the 200 B.C. The name "Paithani" is derived from small town "Paithan" is situated on the banks of the river Godavari located in Central India, Aurangabad district, Maharashtra state, India. The Nizam of Hyderabad was also an ardent admirer of Paithani sarees, the Peshwas took it upon themselves to promote the craft, and consequently, settled Paithani weavers in Yeola, which is now the manufacturing hub for Paithani. The Paithani saree is traditionally a part of the trousseau of every Maharashtrian bride. People here speak Marathi language and they lead simple life. There are many communities involved in weaving these beautiful sarees namely Khatri, Koshti, Swakula Sali are few known communities.
Maharashtrian or Marathi cuisine is just tempting but lip smacking and delicious too, little hot and spicy, the riches of the food and aroma, what more can I say!! If you are a vegan, than a must try Bharli vangi(stuffed eggplant) goes well with chapathi, roti, Kolhapur is as famous for its spicy mutton(goat meat) curries, popularly called ‘Matnacha rassa’ mutton Kolhapuri is red-hot mutton curry dish.
Paithani Sarees are hand woven saris preferred by the women of Maharashtra during festivals and important functions, these sarees are considered as one of the richest saris in India. Paithani saris are available in cotton and silk, made exquisitely from silk, cotton, and silver threads, To weave one basic Paithani saree it will take eight to ten days, the more detailing and intricate works it may even take one month to two years to weave one masterpiece Paithani Saree. These sarees are done on 'Handloom' made on a wooden loom. it's made from finest silk, multiple colors are used and it's just a it's a collectors piece. Paithani is completely handwoven fabric made from fine silk gold and silver threads(zari). The cost depends completely on the type of design, patterns, number of days required to weave and finally the amount of manual labour work involved in it. It is made from natural silk or cotton with precious gold and silver metal threads.
Paithani Sarees and Fabrics gets exclusive Intellectual Property rights through Geographical indication Act (GI). Earlier these sarees were produced only for sophisticated buyers. The main body of the saree is either plain, or full saree with intricate works, as well as spotted designs are seen.
Color palette: Generally they use traditional colors and darker and brighter shades are red, mehendi green, blue, yellow which are popular. While some resulting from the amalgamation of different colors such as neeligunji as sky blue, motiya known as peach pink, golden mango, pasila- blend of red and green, gujri-black and white blend, mirani-black and red blend, Kusumbi - violet red, royal red, vangi-aubegine purple, pophali known as yellow, Samprus as blend of green-red, uddani (a fainterblack), sankirodak as white, orphankhi as green-blue blend, firozi as white-red pale green, aboli as peach-pink and kaali chandrakala.
The Motifs: The oldest traditional Paithani designs are the royal bird known as muma parinda, lotus or kamal pushpa, muniya or tota-maina motif symbolizes the parrot, koyari motif known as mango, hans/hamsam/swan motif, mor known as peacock, chandrakor(moon) narali motif known as coconut, cotton bud known as rui phul, humaparindas (the pheasant), bangdimor (peacock in a bangle), anarvel known as pomegranate flower, kalas pakli(petal), behesti parinda (the bird of paradise), drakshavel (vine and grapes), akruti(almond shape) kuyri known as the paisleys, gokarna vel, asawalli(flowering vines) and instruments like tanpura, tabla, shehnai, sambal, fan known as pankha and few small motifs like circles, stars, kalas pakhhli, chandrakor, clusters of 3 leaves are few popularly known motifs.
The pallu: One can see 'single Pallu' and 'double pallu' the uniquesness in the pallu, meticulously crafted colourful pallu elaborate and exclusive detailing multiple peacocks(mor) setting lotus, asawali, a flower pot with a flowering plant, muthada, a geometrical design, ensemble very intricate muniya(parrot), some traditional bunch earthen pots , paisley flower vine, Ajanta lotus inspired by Ajanta caves, some are with Jacquard pallu with tissue type, asawali, a flower pot with a flowering plant, pleasant instrument pallu, meena work on the saree, muthada, a geometrical design, Laher this design is done in the centre to strengthen the zari, panja, a geometrical flower-like motif, Barwa, 12 strands of a ladder, 3 strands on each side these are few popular designs and motifs in pallu.
Different types of pallu(falling edge of the saree)
- Single Pallu/Padar (16-18" Pallu)
- Double Pallu/Padar (24-30" Pallu)
- Fancy Pallu Medium Pallu/Padar (18-22" Pallu)
- Fancy Pallu Large Pallu/Padar (24-30" Pallu)
- Heavy Brocade Pallu (30-36")
Varies types of border
- Kadiyal border
- Double-layer, triple-layer Muniya brocade border
- Muniya lace border
- Narali border
- Peacock border
- Pankha border
- Oblique border
- Geometry brocade border
- Golden band brocade border
- Temple brocade border
Mainly there are three techniques used in weaving this saree
- Split tapestry weave
- Dobe-tailing method
- Interlocking method
A delightful shopping: Paithani sarees, Pure Paithani Clutches, Paithani large handbag, Flat purses, Paithani jewerally box, Paithani mobile cases, duppattas, long kurtas, dhoti pants, sarong skirts, Paithani jackets, Paithani tie, Paithani sling bags and many more.
How to identify a authentic Paithani saree
- Genuine Paithani handloom saree, while checking look for reverse side of the saree the top and reverse side of the saree looks same looks exactly the same, border and pallu as well and there are no mesh of threads(no interlocking of threads) are noticed.
- Since the Paithani sarees are manually handwoven, no two Paithani sarees identically seen(exactly the same) there will be minor variations in the design.
- Authentic silk, when you burn the silk, it should smell like human hair.
- Paithani Saree, recommended only for dry clean only and roll press
- At home, if necessary iron the saree from back side(reverse side of the saree)
- Change the saree folds after every use.
- Paithani Saree should be kept and wraped in muslin cloth.
Graceful Mysore silk, traditional Ilkal sarees and one of the intricate hand embroidery called Kasuti embroidery hails from Karnataka, the word Kasuti is split across two words Kai which means hand and Suti meaning cotton, the activity which is done through cotton and hands. It was used on everyday apparels. Kasuti Embroidery is been given Geographical Indications, Karnataka Handicrafts Development Corporation(KHDC) holds a Geographical Indications(GI) protection for Kasuti embroidery.
Flooded with an unlimited supply of so-called duplicate, replicated and imitation Mysore silk sarees in the local wholesale market saying it is a pure Mysore silk saree, how far it is true? let us just imagine a current per gram gold price is said three thousand and above, so in original Mysore silk saree, they use extensively use gold and silver zari, how can you get a Mysore silk saree worth less than a ten thousand(INR)? This is a logically based question that many fail to think before you invest and spend your hard earned money on fake silk sarees.
Lotus(Nelumbo Nucifera) is a very ancient water plant. Lotus is one of the popular motifs used in Indian textiles, motifs are generally inspired by nature, human figures, architecture from buildings and animals so on, this flower occupies a unique place in Indian art, textiles, poetry, literature, religions purposes and mythology of ancient India. Although this flower is rooted in mud, it continues to float on the water even after emerging from the mud, it remains unstained! The flower is represented with both its opening and closing petals indicating the ups and downs of life. In fact many Hindus are infatuated with lotus flowers, Gorgeous Lotus are called by varies names such as Kamal, Tavare-gadde, Motunkamal, Utpala, Pundarika, Tamarai and Padma and are found in white, pink, red, purple and blue are found in Asian countries.
Kantha is one of the oldest forms of embroidery that originated in India. Earlier the Kantha sarees were usually draped by the women of West Bengal as to protect themselves against the cold weather. Kantha work is done by simple running stitches. Motifs such as fish, birds, ducks, trees, mountain, boat, footprint, animals, mosque, ratha, kantha motifs are very few examples.
Located on the banks of mighty river Brahmaputra, from few years back Sualkuchi Handloom industry is center for weaving and labor intensive industry for weaving and encompasses cotton textile, silk textile and Khadi fabrics as well and known as the Manchester of the East, Kamrup district of Assam. Sualkuchi is heavenly kingdom for weaving and the looms are found in almost very home in the villages of Assam and depending on the design, patterns and complexity it would take around six or more days to weave one beautiful masterpiece saree. The economy of this place is mainly dependent of handlooms, not only Tanti community of Tantipara are weaving this craft but also other communities like Garo community of Assam, fishermen and Brahmin communities also are engaged in weaving, the official languages are Assamese, Bodo and Bengali and renowned for Assam tea and Assam silk.
Kasaragod district is a small town situated in Malabar Region of Kerala–God's Own Country, India. The traditional Hand-loom Kasargode sarees are manufactured in this region, these Handwoven sarees is inexpensive and can be wearable daily. These traditional ethnic sarees are specially treasured and worn by every keralite during any traditional occasions and are known for 'quality', 'colour pattern on borders', 'durability' and 'traditional designs'. Kasaragod sarees are best known for cotton sarees of fine count like 60s, 80s, and 100s , recent versions have made available for a blend of artificial silk saree. Kasaragod sarees is registered and recognized under Geographical indication tag (GI tag), under the geographical indication Act- 1999. The weaving community who are involved in weaving these traditional sarees are 'Shaliya community' is also known by various names such as 'Saliya' or 'Chaliyan'.
It was one of the most humid days of summer in March, Bangalore and all of a sudden earthy mud smell ha being 'Taurus' sun sign I really love to play in the mud, and with natures basket, it might also include rain as well and slightly it drizzled it was first rainfall of a season and I had this topic in mind for a long time, having a cup of green tea to refresh me, so now so let's get started.
Florals are back again this season when fashion consultants start a trend to get back all the blossom floral prints time again new fashion vibes to take off...Here is a fresh light weight floral printed silk saree, which is featherweight, easy to drape and which does not go out of fashion!
Colorfully yarns woven on a handloom by the weavers of Tamil Nadu, this sarees hails from the temple city 'Kanchipuram', well Known and called by many names Kanchi, Kanjivaram, Kanjeevaram and Conjevaram. Kancheepuram district is situated on the north east coast of Tamil Nadu. Kanchi cottons are distinguished by beautiful motifs woven, handwoven sarees are soft, airy and yet comfortable. Silk and cotton sarees of Kanchipuram are inspired by the temple designs.
In India, Elephants motifs are richly used in Indian textiles Industry, Elephants were used by kings during wars in India. It is considered as auspicious animal and called by varies names such as Yanai, Hathi, Āne and so on. Elephant symbolizes royalty, prosperity, fertility, strength and wisdom. Our traditional motifs are deeply influenced by religious belief, culture, religious beliefs, environment, architecture, history, day to day activities which are carried out in life and so on and thus motifs represent over poetic expressions, and devotional characters, which can be interpretation of expression as well in the form of motifs.
On the banks of charming 'Vaigai river' the beautiful Madurai city is localled, the district, in Tamil Nadu state, India, this place is referred and called by various names 'Madurai', 'Koodal', 'Malligai Maanagar', 'Naanmadakoodal' and 'Thirualavai'. During 16th century due to economic crisis weavers from 'Saurashtra' and 'Gujarat' migrated to Tamil Nadu, Kerala, Andhra Pradesh and neighbouring states and some of them settled down in inviting 'Madurai'. These 'Saurashtrians' are highly skilled manufacturers of beautifully crafted fine silk garments and were patronized by Kings and their families, they were called by 'Patnulkarans' the Tamil name by which these people is well known in southern India.
Embroidery being a needle craft, with colorful yarns to make varies design and patterns and to enhance the beauty fabric, this beautiful ancient handmade embroidery called Phulkari, is from Punjab, which is regarded as very auspicious for brides during marriage ceremonies and newborns.
I remember and recollect my childhood memories, I was just nutty about cotton sarees and fabrics, not only for comfort but for simplicity. I always love to be seamless in the crowd! My passion grew regardless of the age for hand-loom sarees, today I'm here to share one more simple weave from Karnataka called Patteda Anchu handloom cotton saree.