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TALES 》 Paithani Cotton and Silk Sarees

Priceless intricacies of Paithani sarees

The art of weaving Paithani flourished during the 'Satvahana era' in the 200 B.C. The name "Paithani" is derived from small town "Paithan" is situated on the banks of the river Godavari located in Central India, Aurangabad district, Maharashtra state, India. The Nizam of Hyderabad was also an ardent admirer of Paithani sarees, the Peshwas took it upon themselves to promote the craft, and consequently, settled Paithani weavers in Yeola, which is now the manufacturing hub for Paithani. The Paithani saree is traditionally a part of the trousseau of every Maharashtrian bride. People here speak Marathi language and they lead simple life. There are many communities involved in weaving these beautiful sarees namely Khatri, Koshti, Swakula Sali are few known communities.

Maharashtrian or Marathi cuisine is just tempting but lip smacking and delicious too, little hot and spicy, the riches of the food and aroma, what more can I say!! If you are a vegan, than a must try Bharli vangi(stuffed eggplant) goes well with chapathi, roti, Kolhapur is as famous for its spicy mutton(goat meat) curries, popularly called ‘Matnacha rassa’ mutton Kolhapuri is red-hot mutton curry dish.

Paithani Sarees are hand woven saris preferred by the women of Maharashtra during festivals and important functions, these sarees are considered as one of the richest saris in India. Paithani saris are available in cotton and silk, made exquisitely from silk, cotton, and silver threads, To weave one basic Paithani saree it will take eight to ten days, the more detailing and intricate works it may even take one month to two years to weave one masterpiece Paithani Saree. These sarees are done on 'Handloom' made on a wooden loom. it's made from finest silk, multiple colors are used and it's just a it's a collectors piece. Paithani is completely handwoven fabric made from fine silk gold and silver threads(zari). The cost depends completely on the type of design, patterns, number of days required to weave and finally the amount of manual labour work involved in it. It is made from natural silk or cotton with precious gold and silver metal threads.

Paithani Sarees and Fabrics gets exclusive Intellectual Property rights through Geographical indication Act (GI). Earlier these sarees were produced only for sophisticated buyers. The main body of the saree is either plain, or full saree with intricate works, as well as spotted designs are seen.

Color palette: Generally they use traditional colors and darker and brighter shades are red, mehendi green, blue, yellow which are popular. While some resulting from the amalgamation of different colors such as neeligunji as sky blue, motiya known as peach pink, golden mango, pasila- blend of red and green, gujri-black and white blend, mirani-black and red blend, Kusumbi - violet red, royal red, vangi-aubegine purple, pophali known as yellow, Samprus as blend of green-red, uddani (a fainterblack), sankirodak as white, orphankhi as green-blue blend, firozi as white-red pale green, aboli as peach-pink and kaali chandrakala.

The Motifs: The oldest traditional Paithani designs are the royal bird known as muma parinda, lotus or kamal pushpa, muniya or tota-maina motif symbolizes the parrot, koyari motif known as mango, hans/hamsam/swan motif, mor known as peacock, chandrakor(moon) narali motif known as coconut, cotton bud known as rui phul, humaparindas (the pheasant), bangdimor (peacock in a bangle), anarvel known as pomegranate flower, kalas pakli(petal), behesti parinda (the bird of paradise), drakshavel (vine and grapes), akruti(almond shape) kuyri known as the paisleys, gokarna vel, asawalli(flowering vines) and instruments like tanpura, tabla, shehnai, sambal, fan known as pankha and few small motifs like circles, stars, kalas pakhhli, chandrakor, clusters of 3 leaves are few popularly known motifs.

The pallu: One can see 'single Pallu' and 'double pallu' the uniquesness in the pallu, meticulously crafted colourful pallu elaborate and exclusive detailing multiple peacocks(mor) setting lotus, asawali, a flower pot with a flowering plant, muthada, a geometrical design, ensemble very intricate muniya(parrot), some traditional bunch earthen pots , paisley flower vine, Ajanta lotus inspired by Ajanta caves, some are with Jacquard pallu with tissue type, asawali, a flower pot with a flowering plant, pleasant instrument pallu, meena work on the saree, muthada, a geometrical design, Laher this design is done in the centre to strengthen the zari, panja, a geometrical flower-like motif, Barwa, 12 strands of a ladder, 3 strands on each side these are few popular designs and motifs in pallu.

Different types of pallu(falling edge of the saree)

  • Single Pallu/Padar (16-18" Pallu)
  • Double Pallu/Padar (24-30" Pallu)
  • Fancy Pallu Medium Pallu/Padar (18-22" Pallu)
  • Fancy Pallu Large Pallu/Padar (24-30" Pallu)
  • Heavy Brocade Pallu (30-36")

Varies types of border

  • Kadiyal border
  • Double-layer, triple-layer Muniya brocade border
  • Muniya lace border
  • Narali border
  • Peacock border
  • Pankha border
  • Oblique border
  • Geometry brocade border
  • Golden band brocade border
  • Temple brocade border

Mainly there are three techniques used in weaving this saree

  • Split tapestry weave
  • Dobe-tailing method
  • Interlocking method

A delightful shopping: Paithani sarees, Pure Paithani Clutches, Paithani large handbag, Flat purses, Paithani jewerally box, Paithani mobile cases, duppattas, long kurtas, dhoti pants, sarong skirts, Paithani jackets, Paithani tie, Paithani sling bags and many more.

How to identify a authentic Paithani saree

  • Genuine Paithani handloom saree, while checking look for reverse side of the saree the top and reverse side of the saree looks same looks exactly the same, border and pallu as well and there are no mesh of threads(no interlocking of threads) are noticed.
  • Since the Paithani sarees are manually handwoven, no two Paithani sarees identically seen(exactly the same) there will be minor variations in the design.
  • Authentic silk, when you burn the silk, it should smell like human hair.

Fabric care

  • Paithani Saree, recommended only for dry clean only and roll press
  • At home, if necessary iron the saree from back side(reverse side of the saree)
  • Change the saree folds after every use.
  • Paithani Saree should be kept and wraped in muslin cloth.



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Banjara Embroidery ↗
Saturday' 13-Mar-2021
Banjara Embroidery-Stunning piece of art, Sarees are my passion
I am huge fan of Banjara jewelry which are antique yet collectables, their most flamboyant and mind-blowing costumes one goes crazy and highly appreciated, they still follow the rich and age old traditional art forms, which are been reflected in their art work, especially hand embroidery requires lot of time and patience and its laborious. These tribes speak Lamani language/Goar-boali it is also called as Banjari language. One can see Banjara tribes in Telangana, Andhra Pradesh, West Bengal, Bihar, Tamil Nadu, Odisha, Maharashtra, Karnataka, Madhya Pradesh, Himachal Pradesh, Gujarat in these places they are widely spread across.

Dhakai Jamdani, Dhakai from West Bengal India ↗
Saturday' 13-Mar-2021
Delicate devotion and passion, lies sophisticated threads
Jamdani is one of the finest muslin textiles of Bengal, produced in Dhaka District, Bangladesh for centuries. Jamdani originally known as 'Dhakai' named after the city of Dhaka, is called by varies names such as popularly known as Dhakai Jamdani or simply Dhakai. The word ‘jamdani’ is believed to be of Persian origin, 'Jam', meaning flower and 'Dani' meaning vase or a container, named after decorative floral patterns which discovered from Dhakai textile. This unique hand technique of weaving was called jamdani in the old days, while the weave was called Dhakai, these sarees are traditionally woven around on the brocade loom. These beautiful intricate weaves are available in mediums such as cotton and silk. One of the most expensive product of Dhaka looms, Jamdani requires the most dedicated and passionate weaver and during olden days only royal families were able to afford such luxuries.

Kanchi Cotton Sarees ↗
Saturday' 13-Mar-2021
A touch of tradition, Heritage cottons from the city of thousand temples
Colorfully yarns woven on a handloom by the weavers of Tamil Nadu, this sarees hails from the temple city 'Kanchipuram', well Known and called by many names Kanchi, Kanjivaram, Kanjeevaram and Conjevaram. Kancheepuram district is situated on the north east coast of Tamil Nadu. Kanchi cottons are distinguished by beautiful motifs woven, handwoven sarees are soft, airy and yet comfortable. Silk and cotton sarees of Kanchipuram are inspired by the temple designs.

Sambalpuri Ikkat Silk Saree - VLOG ↗
Saturday' 13-Mar-2021
Its been a very long time and I'm back with my notes on traditional classic weave from Odissa which is Sambalpuri Ikkat silk saree, this saree is a bit heavy and all the traditional elements like Rudraksha, fish motifs and many more you can see, check out my latest update and experience the glory of this beauty!

Ethnic Indian Sarees Art ↗
Saturday' 13-Mar-2021

Niche Korvai Kanchipuram Pattu Saree ↗
Saturday' 13-Mar-2021
Two main reasons why people go to Kanchipuram is firstly to Kanchi Kamakshi Amman temple to take blessings from her, which is the most important shakti peetha temples in India and secondly to SHOP SHOP and SHOP again for all the stunning bride, for a BIG fat Indian wedding. Kanchivaram is a traditional silk saree from south India and each and every house would have endless collections of these pattu sarees. Basically, pattu means in regional Tamil language silk. Korvai is one of the complex technique used to weave Kanchipuram silk sarees, not all sarees which are woven in Kanchipuram are Korvai.

Kalamkari Sarees and Fabric ↗
Saturday' 13-Mar-2021
Kalamkari or qalamkari is a type of hand-painted or block-printed on a Cotton Textile or Silk Textile. Produced in India, Iran. The Name Originates in Persian, from the words qalam (pen) and kari (craftsmanship), meaning drawing with a pen.

Lotus Motif ↗
Saturday' 13-Mar-2021
The Sacred Lotus, petals on beauty
Lotus(Nelumbo Nucifera) is a very ancient water plant. Lotus is one of the popular motifs used in Indian textiles, motifs are generally inspired by nature, human figures, architecture from buildings and animals so on, this flower occupies a unique place in Indian art, textiles, poetry, literature, religions purposes and mythology of ancient India. Although this flower is rooted in mud, it continues to float on the water even after emerging from the mud, it remains unstained! The flower is represented with both its opening and closing petals indicating the ups and downs of life. In fact many Hindus are infatuated with lotus flowers, Gorgeous Lotus are called by varies names such as Kamal, Tavare-gadde, Motunkamal, Utpala, Pundarika, Tamarai and Padma and are found in white, pink, red, purple and blue are found in Asian countries.

Ilkal Handloom Chikki Paras Saree from Karnataka - VLOG ↗
Saturday' 13-Mar-2021
Handloom sarees are one of the most classic ones and will never go out of fashion no matter what new sarees comes in trend. In Karnataka there are so many such sarees which are yet to come to the light, I'm trying to reach via my blog post and my youtube channel Sarees are my passion to educate, discover and learn about sarees. Here is one such Vintage Ilkal Saree from Bagalkot district of Karnataka state.

Shantipuri or Santipore Cotton Saree ↗
Saturday' 13-Mar-2021
Soaked in handloom tradition, deeprooted weaves
A small town called Shantipur, also called by Santipur, Nadia district in the Indian state of West Bengal. Santipur is famous for handloom sarees from ancient times, this place and surrounding region has been famous for handloom sarees. Shantipur sarees are also called by name Santipore saree. This place is famous for handloom sarees from ancient times and elegant designs inspired from nature and especially known for its superfine dhoti and handloom saree with jacquard design. In this place, they generally use 'fly shuttle' frame looms filted with jacquard invariably used in Shantipur. Graceful looking sarees have been granted and awarded GI tag(Santipore Saree). To weave double-sided design they use Do-Rookha technique, the front and the reverse side of the saree looks extractly the same.


Featured Video:
Watch on Youtube - [163//0] 10 | | Sarees are my passion - Kannada ↗

Ethnic Indian Sarees - Sarees are my passion ↗
Saturday' 13-Mar-2021
Here is a list of various Cotton and Silk Sarees from different parts of India.

Kantha Art Work from India ↗
Saturday' 13-Mar-2021
Kantha Embroidery or Kantha art work
Kantha is one of the oldest forms of embroidery that originated in India. Earlier the Kantha sarees were usually draped by the women of West Bengal as to protect themselves against the cold weather. Kantha work is done by simple running stitches. Motifs such as fish, birds, ducks, trees, mountain, boat, footprint, animals, mosque, ratha, kantha motifs are very few examples.

Hubli Cotton Sarees ↗
Saturday' 13-Mar-2021
Plain weaves for lazy Summer afternoons
One of the most traditional sarees which I had seen apart from Ilkal saree is Hubli cotton sarees, due extreme humidity generally localities adore this saree for daily bases. This is one of the simple weaves but I totally in love with this saree, the texture of the saree is so soft due to the high count of cotton yarn used.

Sarees are my passion | Videos ↗
Saturday' 13-Mar-2021

Ilkal Handloom Chikki Paras Saree from Karnataka - VLOG ↗
Saturday' 13-Mar-2021
Handloom sarees are one of the most classic ones and will never go out of fashion no matter what new sarees comes in trend. In Karnataka there are so many such sarees which are yet to come to the light, I'm trying to reach via my blog post and my youtube channel Sarees are my passion to educate, discover and learn about sarees. Here is one such Vintage Ilkal Saree from Bagalkot district of Karnataka state.

Banjara Embroidery ↗
Saturday' 13-Mar-2021
Banjara Embroidery-Stunning piece of art, Sarees are my passion
I am huge fan of Banjara jewelry which are antique yet collectables, their most flamboyant and mind-blowing costumes one goes crazy and highly appreciated, they still follow the rich and age old traditional art forms, which are been reflected in their art work, especially hand embroidery requires lot of time and patience and its laborious. These tribes speak Lamani language/Goar-boali it is also called as Banjari language. One can see Banjara tribes in Telangana, Andhra Pradesh, West Bengal, Bihar, Tamil Nadu, Odisha, Maharashtra, Karnataka, Madhya Pradesh, Himachal Pradesh, Gujarat in these places they are widely spread across.

Kanchipuram Double Border Saree - VLOG ↗
Saturday' 13-Mar-2021
One of my vintage collection from Tamil Nadu is Kanchipuram Double Border Saree, it is a Beige color as you can see in the portrait and do check out for an overall look of the saree in my video of as well. It has that charm of subtle look yet gives that opulence. In a nutshell, I can say it's the best match for your temple wedding( muhurtham silk saree) gives that complete finish of that traditional look and feel with antique temple jewelry. This is my one of my wedding saree as well which I had shopped for which has a 'Double Border' the first border is bottle green in color with thread work and the second border is a blend of Zari( Gold, deep maroon and bottle green) as well. This saree credit goes to my dad since he selected this wonderful piece of art. When I go deep about this saree, the base of the saree has the emboss stamp a design(beige color) with leaf and other elements as well and when it comes to the pallu area it has Swan's bird motifs.

Khesh Cotton Sarees from West Bengal India ↗
Saturday' 13-Mar-2021
The art of blending of old and new?
Craving for summer fruits is a must for some like me haha Peaches, the juicy Mangoes, cooling Watermelons what not and what about pairing a perfect outfit the saree for this season is also very important how many of you agree with me? So let's get started, guess what today I would be taking to West Bengal? The guesswork starts ... is it Baluchari, Tant, Begampuri sarees or the brilliantly woven Jamdani, nope it's one of the artistic weave called Khesh sarees.

Warli Art (Warli painting) from India ↗
Saturday' 13-Mar-2021
Exploring Warli Art, the folk tales!
Warli or Varli are the indigenous tribe or adivasis, Warli tribe hailing from mountains, coastal regions in and around the borders of rural Thane district and Dhule district of Maharashtra and Gujarat states of India. The term Warli is derived from ‘warla’ or ‘varla’ meaning a piece of land. Originally hunters, the Warli tribe later settled down as tenders of agricultural lands. The Varlis are non-aryan tribes, who are firm believers of sun and moon. Practically, the Warlis never worshipped man-made idols. Warli people are a simple folk with simple beliefs that govern their lives. The language of communication with them is mostly in Marathi, Konkani, Sanskrit, Gujarati or Khandeshi Bhil.

Dhakai Jamdani, Dhakai from West Bengal India ↗
Saturday' 13-Mar-2021
Delicate devotion and passion, lies sophisticated threads
Jamdani is one of the finest muslin textiles of Bengal, produced in Dhaka District, Bangladesh for centuries. Jamdani originally known as 'Dhakai' named after the city of Dhaka, is called by varies names such as popularly known as Dhakai Jamdani or simply Dhakai. The word ‘jamdani’ is believed to be of Persian origin, 'Jam', meaning flower and 'Dani' meaning vase or a container, named after decorative floral patterns which discovered from Dhakai textile. This unique hand technique of weaving was called jamdani in the old days, while the weave was called Dhakai, these sarees are traditionally woven around on the brocade loom. These beautiful intricate weaves are available in mediums such as cotton and silk. One of the most expensive product of Dhaka looms, Jamdani requires the most dedicated and passionate weaver and during olden days only royal families were able to afford such luxuries.