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TALES 》 Paithani Cotton and Silk Sarees

Priceless intricacies of Paithani sarees

The art of weaving Paithani flourished during the 'Satvahana era' in the 200 B.C. The name "Paithani" is derived from small town "Paithan" is situated on the banks of the river Godavari located in Central India, Aurangabad district, Maharashtra state, India. The Nizam of Hyderabad was also an ardent admirer of Paithani sarees, the Peshwas took it upon themselves to promote the craft, and consequently, settled Paithani weavers in Yeola, which is now the manufacturing hub for Paithani. The Paithani saree is traditionally a part of the trousseau of every Maharashtrian bride. People here speak Marathi language and they lead simple life. There are many communities involved in weaving these beautiful sarees namely Khatri, Koshti, Swakula Sali are few known communities.

Maharashtrian or Marathi cuisine is just tempting but lip smacking and delicious too, little hot and spicy, the riches of the food and aroma, what more can I say!! If you are a vegan, than a must try Bharli vangi(stuffed eggplant) goes well with chapathi, roti, Kolhapur is as famous for its spicy mutton(goat meat) curries, popularly called ‘Matnacha rassa’ mutton Kolhapuri is red-hot mutton curry dish.

Paithani Sarees are hand woven saris preferred by the women of Maharashtra during festivals and important functions, these sarees are considered as one of the richest saris in India. Paithani saris are available in cotton and silk, made exquisitely from silk, cotton, and silver threads, To weave one basic Paithani saree it will take eight to ten days, the more detailing and intricate works it may even take one month to two years to weave one masterpiece Paithani Saree. These sarees are done on 'Handloom' made on a wooden loom. it's made from finest silk, multiple colors are used and it's just a it's a collectors piece. Paithani is completely handwoven fabric made from fine silk gold and silver threads(zari). The cost depends completely on the type of design, patterns, number of days required to weave and finally the amount of manual labour work involved in it. It is made from natural silk or cotton with precious gold and silver metal threads.

Paithani Sarees and Fabrics gets exclusive Intellectual Property rights through Geographical indication Act (GI). Earlier these sarees were produced only for sophisticated buyers. The main body of the saree is either plain, or full saree with intricate works, as well as spotted designs are seen.

Color palette: Generally they use traditional colors and darker and brighter shades are red, mehendi green, blue, yellow which are popular. While some resulting from the amalgamation of different colors such as neeligunji as sky blue, motiya known as peach pink, golden mango, pasila- blend of red and green, gujri-black and white blend, mirani-black and red blend, Kusumbi - violet red, royal red, vangi-aubegine purple, pophali known as yellow, Samprus as blend of green-red, uddani (a fainterblack), sankirodak as white, orphankhi as green-blue blend, firozi as white-red pale green, aboli as peach-pink and kaali chandrakala.

The Motifs: The oldest traditional Paithani designs are the royal bird known as muma parinda, lotus or kamal pushpa, muniya or tota-maina motif symbolizes the parrot, koyari motif known as mango, hans/hamsam/swan motif, mor known as peacock, chandrakor(moon) narali motif known as coconut, cotton bud known as rui phul, humaparindas (the pheasant), bangdimor (peacock in a bangle), anarvel known as pomegranate flower, kalas pakli(petal), behesti parinda (the bird of paradise), drakshavel (vine and grapes), akruti(almond shape) kuyri known as the paisleys, gokarna vel, asawalli(flowering vines) and instruments like tanpura, tabla, shehnai, sambal, fan known as pankha and few small motifs like circles, stars, kalas pakhhli, chandrakor, clusters of 3 leaves are few popularly known motifs.

The pallu: One can see 'single Pallu' and 'double pallu' the uniquesness in the pallu, meticulously crafted colourful pallu elaborate and exclusive detailing multiple peacocks(mor) setting lotus, asawali, a flower pot with a flowering plant, muthada, a geometrical design, ensemble very intricate muniya(parrot), some traditional bunch earthen pots , paisley flower vine, Ajanta lotus inspired by Ajanta caves, some are with Jacquard pallu with tissue type, asawali, a flower pot with a flowering plant, pleasant instrument pallu, meena work on the saree, muthada, a geometrical design, Laher this design is done in the centre to strengthen the zari, panja, a geometrical flower-like motif, Barwa, 12 strands of a ladder, 3 strands on each side these are few popular designs and motifs in pallu.

Different types of pallu(falling edge of the saree)

  • Single Pallu/Padar (16-18" Pallu)
  • Double Pallu/Padar (24-30" Pallu)
  • Fancy Pallu Medium Pallu/Padar (18-22" Pallu)
  • Fancy Pallu Large Pallu/Padar (24-30" Pallu)
  • Heavy Brocade Pallu (30-36")

Varies types of border

  • Kadiyal border
  • Double-layer, triple-layer Muniya brocade border
  • Muniya lace border
  • Narali border
  • Peacock border
  • Pankha border
  • Oblique border
  • Geometry brocade border
  • Golden band brocade border
  • Temple brocade border

Mainly there are three techniques used in weaving this saree

  • Split tapestry weave
  • Dobe-tailing method
  • Interlocking method

A delightful shopping: Paithani sarees, Pure Paithani Clutches, Paithani large handbag, Flat purses, Paithani jewerally box, Paithani mobile cases, duppattas, long kurtas, dhoti pants, sarong skirts, Paithani jackets, Paithani tie, Paithani sling bags and many more.

How to identify a authentic Paithani saree

  • Genuine Paithani handloom saree, while checking look for reverse side of the saree the top and reverse side of the saree looks same looks exactly the same, border and pallu as well and there are no mesh of threads(no interlocking of threads) are noticed.
  • Since the Paithani sarees are manually handwoven, no two Paithani sarees identically seen(exactly the same) there will be minor variations in the design.
  • Authentic silk, when you burn the silk, it should smell like human hair.

Fabric care

  • Paithani Saree, recommended only for dry clean only and roll press
  • At home, if necessary iron the saree from back side(reverse side of the saree)
  • Change the saree folds after every use.
  • Paithani Saree should be kept and wraped in muslin cloth.



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Sponsors - Sarees are my passion ↗
Saturday' 13-Mar-2021
Over the years my passion, enthusiasm and dedication towards research became more prominent, addiction and thirst to learn new, which became everyday routine. I recall the cherished memories when I was seven, passion towards art and fabrics caught my attention, my mind was frittering what to do next once I pursue my University education. Later quitting a conventional job and taking plunge to dive towards soul's eternal journey and being laid back and do what you love isn't it interesting? That is how Sarees are my passion is born.

Bandhani Sarees or Bandhej Sarees from Gujarat India ↗
Saturday' 13-Mar-2021
Meticulously tying the bonds of colorful junction
Bandhani is derived from Sanskrit word, bandh known as to-tie and patterns, colours are limitless. Wondering what are the varies names to Bandhani? called and known by varies names such as Bandhej, Piliya, Ghar Chola, Patori, Bandhni and in Tamil Nadu its known as Sungudi. Khatri of Kutch and Saurashtra community involved in making this colorful art since ages. Places in Rajasthan like Jaipur, Sikar, Bhilwara, Udaipur, Bikaner, Ajmer, Tamil Nadu and Jamnagar in Gujarat are the well known centers producing odhnis, sarees and turbans in Bandhani.

Dharmavaram Silk Sarees ↗
Saturday' 13-Mar-2021
Lavish Saree of Bride, mulberry silk Dharmavaram
A beautiful city in Anantapur district, Andhra Pradesh state, India known for its renowned cotton, splendorous silk weaving industries and leather puppets, Dharmavaram. According to the history notes, name of the city Dharmavaram ,has been named after 'Dharmamba', who was the mother of Sri Kriyasakthi Odeyar (person, who built the first tank in the region). The economy of the town is dependent on the weaving industry. Natives of this place speak Telugu(regional language). Dharmavaram sarees is been registered as one of the geographical indication from Andhra Pradesh.

My Saree Tassels ↗
Saturday' 13-Mar-2021
Tassels are the finishing feature on fabric or any other clothing decoration! My wedding bells was around the corner, I was all alone to decide things, I made a checklist and I started one by one, ticking which was done and making a note which has to get complete, finally it was the turn of Tassels, so I decided based on the saree and blouse(Upper garment) to add a mix and match of silk threads and some additional ornamentation with some beads as well, but my designer was well talented and she knew what I wanted exactly and finished the work on time!

Patteda Anchu handloom cotton Saree ↗
Saturday' 13-Mar-2021
Life to the an­cient looms an exclusive weave Patteda Anchu, Sarees are my passion
I remember and recollect my childhood memories, I was just nutty about cotton sarees and fabrics, not only for comfort but for simplicity. I always love to be seamless in the crowd! My passion grew regardless of the age for hand-loom sarees, today I'm here to share one more simple weave from Karnataka called Patteda Anchu handloom cotton saree.

Kalamkari Applique Artwork from India ↗
Saturday' 13-Mar-2021
Kalamkari Applique work: A story or a theme is being narrated in the form of patch art called Applique. Applique art dates back centuries ago, Applique work is one of the oldest forms of design in the world and still are used across the globe. Applique is a art decorating one fabric to other which includes Layering, patching, applying. What I noticed is that, they use straight stitch or running stitch, these two are very commonly used stitches practiced while attaching Applique patches on a base fabric.

Arni Silk Sarees ↗
Saturday' 13-Mar-2021
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Apart from magnificent Kanchipuram silk sarees and Kanchi Cotton Sarees, I had no idea what are all the varies types of sarees which are from Tamil Nadu to be frank, although I am a huge enthusiast of Handwoven traditional sarees.

Kantha Art Work from India ↗
Saturday' 13-Mar-2021
Kantha Embroidery or Kantha art work
Kantha is one of the oldest forms of embroidery that originated in India. Earlier the Kantha sarees were usually draped by the women of West Bengal as to protect themselves against the cold weather. Kantha work is done by simple running stitches. Motifs such as fish, birds, ducks, trees, mountain, boat, footprint, animals, mosque, ratha, kantha motifs are very few examples.

Mysore Silk Sarees from Government of Karnataka India ↗
Saturday' 13-Mar-2021
Melting Mysore pak to butter-soft Mysore silks by Sarees are my passion
It is called as City of Palaces, the cultural capital of Karnataka, heritage palaces, magnificent buildings, art galleries, and monuments. Mysore has lent its name from renowned dishes like Mysore Masala Dosa which leaves me craving for melting dessert called Mysore Pak(sweet-dessert). Mysore, the original name of this city was 'Mahishapura' which is derived from the demon named Mahishasura. Mysore officially renamed as Mysuru is one of the districts in Karnataka state.

Kotpad Cotton Sarees ↗
Saturday' 13-Mar-2021
Sophistication lies in simplicity of urban
Savannah, I'm coming home Savannah, by Philly K what a way to start this monsoon breeze and being cozy yet inspired! Kotpad weaves from Koraput district of Orissa, its a small village in Orissa, the fabrics of Kotpad are absolutely unique, breathable due to natural fibre, its glad to say Kotpad Handloom fabrics was first to receive GI(Geographical Indication) tag from Odisha and Kotpad adivasi tribes are still preserving the core aesthetics, making Orissa honored.


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Kotpad Cotton Sarees ↗
Saturday' 13-Mar-2021
Sophistication lies in simplicity of urban
Savannah, I'm coming home Savannah, by Philly K what a way to start this monsoon breeze and being cozy yet inspired! Kotpad weaves from Koraput district of Orissa, its a small village in Orissa, the fabrics of Kotpad are absolutely unique, breathable due to natural fibre, its glad to say Kotpad Handloom fabrics was first to receive GI(Geographical Indication) tag from Odisha and Kotpad adivasi tribes are still preserving the core aesthetics, making Orissa honored.

Kalamkari Sarees and Fabric ↗
Saturday' 13-Mar-2021
Kalamkari or qalamkari is a type of hand-painted or block-printed on a Cotton Textile or Silk Textile. Produced in India, Iran. The Name Originates in Persian, from the words qalam (pen) and kari (craftsmanship), meaning drawing with a pen.

Tant Sarees from West Bengal India (also popularly known as Bengali Cotton Sarees) ↗
Saturday' 13-Mar-2021
Traditional flawlessness crispy weaves to flaunt
What reminds everyone when I says Bengali is mouth watering and luscious dessert 'Rasgulla' and 'Mishti doi' to name the most popular ones in the list and of course Bengali cotton sarees. The medium of communication here is Bengali. The traditional attire of Bengali women is simple forms of these Tant sarees takes around two days to weave and more intricate designs could even take five to six days to complete a saree. Generally Tant saree comes in pastel shades with beautiful thick borders.

Narayanpet Sarees ↗
Saturday' 13-Mar-2021
The Gods, Goddesses and Narayanpet sarees
This Beautiful small little town is renowned for exclusive splendid handloom silk and cotton sarees, Narayanpet in Mahbubnagar district, Telangana state, India. Primary source of income for people here is from weaving sarees. This charming place is extremely hot in summer and cold in winter. Since it's a business hub for sarees people known many regional languages such as Telugu, Kannada, Urdu, Marathi and of course English as well. Narayanpet sarees is known for its durability, affordability and lower maintenance. In this modern age of Indo-western twist and fast fashion outfits, Narayapet saree still remains classy.

Venkatagiri Cotton and Silk Sarees ↗
Saturday' 13-Mar-2021
Venkatagiri sarees or Rajamatha sarees.
Venkatagiri is a small town situated in Nellore district, Andhra pradesh state, India. History of venkatagiri sarees dates back to 1700s, during the rule of Venkatagiri, the masterweaver handcrafted these sarees, specially curated for queens, royal ladies and zamindaris. These sarees were purchased for such handsome amounts that the weavers could survive with that sum of money for almost a year until they got their next order. Exclusive designs were made by the weavers on special order for the upper class only. Much of a boost and encouragement given to these sarees, by the Velugoti dynasty of Nellore and also by the Bobbili and Pithapuram dynasties, back then.

Massive fan following for KSIC Mysore Silk Saree ↗
Saturday' 13-Mar-2021
A gamechanger I can say, this traditional attire which is still one of the most expensive sarees which is ruling the state. Century plus old and still rules the parties and auspicious festivities beyond it, a crazy fan base, are you curious to know what's the secret behind this Massive fan following, unlock the hidden truth by watching this video.

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Niche Korvai Kanchipuram Pattu Saree ↗
Saturday' 13-Mar-2021
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Maheshwari Sarees ↗
Saturday' 13-Mar-2021
The Royal grace, Maheshwari
Floating boats, taking a holy dip in 'Narmada river' and cleansing mind, body and soul, I feel rejuvenated, moving ahead to Omkareshwar(deity Shiva) temple, how blessed I'm. This is a religious town and beautiful city lies on the north bank of Narmada river, Maheshwar is a city in Khargone district of Madhya Pradesh state, in central India. The word Maheshwar in Hindi means 'Great God'. People here speak Hindi and it's official language. The climatic conditions here, is hot dry summer and cool or relatively dry during winter. This beautiful city is known for it's finest handloom fabric. Maheshwar has been a centre of handloom weaving since the 5th century.

Traditional Molakalmuru Saree from Karnataka by Sarees are my passion ↗
Saturday' 13-Mar-2021
Roots of Karnataka 'Molakalmuru', Connecting Old is Gold
Living in the world of fast-moving fashion, where designer Ruffle Sarees takes a runway show stopper pace, I see the 'contrast' the traditional and the modern world. In India, especially when you focus on South India, Karnataka when we take a slice of the pie, the elder generation(mothers or grandmothers) still wear evergreen beauties like Ilkal, Udupi, Banhatti cotton sarees on a day to day bases, depending on the cultural belief system and comfort zone.