TALES 》 Paithani Cotton and Silk Sarees
Priceless intricacies of Paithani sarees
The art of weaving Paithani flourished during the 'Satvahana era' in the 200 B.C. The name "Paithani" is derived from small town "Paithan" is situated on the banks of the river Godavari located in Central India, Aurangabad district, Maharashtra state, India. The Nizam of Hyderabad was also an ardent admirer of Paithani sarees, the Peshwas took it upon themselves to promote the craft, and consequently, settled Paithani weavers in Yeola, which is now the manufacturing hub for Paithani. The Paithani saree is traditionally a part of the trousseau of every Maharashtrian bride. People here speak Marathi language and they lead simple life. There are many communities involved in weaving these beautiful sarees namely Khatri, Koshti, Swakula Sali are few known communities.
Maharashtrian or Marathi cuisine is just tempting but lip smacking and delicious too, little hot and spicy, the riches of the food and aroma, what more can I say!! If you are a vegan, than a must try Bharli vangi(stuffed eggplant) goes well with chapathi, roti, Kolhapur is as famous for its spicy mutton(goat meat) curries, popularly called ‘Matnacha rassa’ mutton Kolhapuri is red-hot mutton curry dish.
Paithani Sarees are hand woven saris preferred by the women of Maharashtra during festivals and important functions, these sarees are considered as one of the richest saris in India. Paithani saris are available in cotton and silk, made exquisitely from silk, cotton, and silver threads, To weave one basic Paithani saree it will take eight to ten days, the more detailing and intricate works it may even take one month to two years to weave one masterpiece Paithani Saree. These sarees are done on 'Handloom' made on a wooden loom. it's made from finest silk, multiple colors are used and it's just a it's a collectors piece. Paithani is completely handwoven fabric made from fine silk gold and silver threads(zari). The cost depends completely on the type of design, patterns, number of days required to weave and finally the amount of manual labour work involved in it. It is made from natural silk or cotton with precious gold and silver metal threads.
Paithani Sarees and Fabrics gets exclusive Intellectual Property rights through Geographical indication Act (GI). Earlier these sarees were produced only for sophisticated buyers. The main body of the saree is either plain, or full saree with intricate works, as well as spotted designs are seen.
Color palette: Generally they use traditional colors and darker and brighter shades are red, mehendi green, blue, yellow which are popular. While some resulting from the amalgamation of different colors such as neeligunji as sky blue, motiya known as peach pink, golden mango, pasila- blend of red and green, gujri-black and white blend, mirani-black and red blend, Kusumbi - violet red, royal red, vangi-aubegine purple, pophali known as yellow, Samprus as blend of green-red, uddani (a fainterblack), sankirodak as white, orphankhi as green-blue blend, firozi as white-red pale green, aboli as peach-pink and kaali chandrakala.
The Motifs: The oldest traditional Paithani designs are the royal bird known as muma parinda, lotus or kamal pushpa, muniya or tota-maina motif symbolizes the parrot, koyari motif known as mango, hans/hamsam/swan motif, mor known as peacock, chandrakor(moon) narali motif known as coconut, cotton bud known as rui phul, humaparindas (the pheasant), bangdimor (peacock in a bangle), anarvel known as pomegranate flower, kalas pakli(petal), behesti parinda (the bird of paradise), drakshavel (vine and grapes), akruti(almond shape) kuyri known as the paisleys, gokarna vel, asawalli(flowering vines) and instruments like tanpura, tabla, shehnai, sambal, fan known as pankha and few small motifs like circles, stars, kalas pakhhli, chandrakor, clusters of 3 leaves are few popularly known motifs.
The pallu: One can see 'single Pallu' and 'double pallu' the uniquesness in the pallu, meticulously crafted colourful pallu elaborate and exclusive detailing multiple peacocks(mor) setting lotus, asawali, a flower pot with a flowering plant, muthada, a geometrical design, ensemble very intricate muniya(parrot), some traditional bunch earthen pots , paisley flower vine, Ajanta lotus inspired by Ajanta caves, some are with Jacquard pallu with tissue type, asawali, a flower pot with a flowering plant, pleasant instrument pallu, meena work on the saree, muthada, a geometrical design, Laher this design is done in the centre to strengthen the zari, panja, a geometrical flower-like motif, Barwa, 12 strands of a ladder, 3 strands on each side these are few popular designs and motifs in pallu.
Different types of pallu(falling edge of the saree)
- Single Pallu/Padar (16-18" Pallu)
- Double Pallu/Padar (24-30" Pallu)
- Fancy Pallu Medium Pallu/Padar (18-22" Pallu)
- Fancy Pallu Large Pallu/Padar (24-30" Pallu)
- Heavy Brocade Pallu (30-36")
Varies types of border
- Kadiyal border
- Double-layer, triple-layer Muniya brocade border
- Muniya lace border
- Narali border
- Peacock border
- Pankha border
- Oblique border
- Geometry brocade border
- Golden band brocade border
- Temple brocade border
Mainly there are three techniques used in weaving this saree
- Split tapestry weave
- Dobe-tailing method
- Interlocking method
A delightful shopping: Paithani sarees, Pure Paithani Clutches, Paithani large handbag, Flat purses, Paithani jewerally box, Paithani mobile cases, duppattas, long kurtas, dhoti pants, sarong skirts, Paithani jackets, Paithani tie, Paithani sling bags and many more.
How to identify a authentic Paithani saree
- Genuine Paithani handloom saree, while checking look for reverse side of the saree the top and reverse side of the saree looks same looks exactly the same, border and pallu as well and there are no mesh of threads(no interlocking of threads) are noticed.
- Since the Paithani sarees are manually handwoven, no two Paithani sarees identically seen(exactly the same) there will be minor variations in the design.
- Authentic silk, when you burn the silk, it should smell like human hair.
- Paithani Saree, recommended only for dry clean only and roll press
- At home, if necessary iron the saree from back side(reverse side of the saree)
- Change the saree folds after every use.
- Paithani Saree should be kept and wraped in muslin cloth.
Graceful Mysore silk, traditional Ilkal sarees and one of the intricate hand embroidery called Kasuti embroidery hails from Karnataka, the word Kasuti is split across two words Kai which means hand and Suti meaning cotton, the activity which is done through cotton and hands. It was used on everyday apparels. Kasuti Embroidery is been given Geographical Indications, Karnataka Handicrafts Development Corporation(KHDC) holds a Geographical Indications(GI) protection for Kasuti embroidery.
This Beautiful small little town is renowned for exclusive splendid handloom silk and cotton sarees, Narayanpet in Mahbubnagar district, Telangana state, India. Primary source of income for people here is from weaving sarees. This charming place is extremely hot in summer and cold in winter. Since it's a business hub for sarees people known many regional languages such as Telugu, Kannada, Urdu, Marathi and of course English as well. Narayanpet sarees is known for its durability, affordability and lower maintenance. In this modern age of Indo-western twist and fast fashion outfits, Narayapet saree still remains classy.
Embroidery being a needle craft, with colorful yarns to make varies design and patterns and to enhance the beauty fabric, this beautiful ancient handmade embroidery called Phulkari, is from Punjab, which is regarded as very auspicious for brides during marriage ceremonies and newborns.
Summer is nearing, how about floating in air with breathtaking saree, looking for what to wear, here is the beautiful handwoven 'Kota Doria' are the best for the reason, when I wore Kota saree, It feels like, I'm floating, transparent, featherweight, soft, airy, light textured, such a beauty it is, these cosy sarees are very fine weaves and weigh very less and comfort, these gorgeous sarees are handwoven on 'traditional pit looms' and drape gracefully. This village called 'Kaithoon' twenty kms from Kota city, the weavers are located in Kota district of South east 'Rajasthan'. Kota Sarees are primarily made in Kota, Rajasthan, Mau, Uttar Pradesh as well.
On the banks of charming 'Vaigai river' the beautiful Madurai city is localled, the district, in Tamil Nadu state, India, this place is referred and called by various names 'Madurai', 'Koodal', 'Malligai Maanagar', 'Naanmadakoodal' and 'Thirualavai'. During 16th century due to economic crisis weavers from 'Saurashtra' and 'Gujarat' migrated to Tamil Nadu, Kerala, Andhra Pradesh and neighbouring states and some of them settled down in inviting 'Madurai'. These 'Saurashtrians' are highly skilled manufacturers of beautifully crafted fine silk garments and were patronized by Kings and their families, they were called by 'Patnulkarans' the Tamil name by which these people is well known in southern India.
Florals are back again this season when fashion consultants start a trend to get back all the blossom floral prints time again new fashion vibes to take off...Here is a fresh light weight floral printed silk saree, which is featherweight, easy to drape and which does not go out of fashion!
It was one of the most humid days of summer in March, Bangalore and all of a sudden earthy mud smell ha being 'Taurus' sun sign I really love to play in the mud, and with natures basket, it might also include rain as well and slightly it drizzled it was first rainfall of a season and I had this topic in mind for a long time, having a cup of green tea to refresh me, so now so let's get started.
What reminds everyone when I says Bengali is mouth watering and luscious dessert 'Rasgulla' and 'Mishti doi' to name the most popular ones in the list and of course Bengali cotton sarees. The medium of communication here is Bengali. The traditional attire of Bengali women is simple forms of these Tant sarees takes around two days to weave and more intricate designs could even take five to six days to complete a saree. Generally Tant saree comes in pastel shades with beautiful thick borders.
One of the most traditional sarees which I had seen apart from Ilkal saree is Hubli cotton sarees, due extreme humidity generally localities adore this saree for daily bases. This is one of the simple weaves but I totally in love with this saree, the texture of the saree is so soft due to the high count of cotton yarn used.
The most down to earth yet vibrant colors are seen in traditional attire of Ilkal, Ilkal is a small town, this town is located in the South-East part of Bagalkote district, Karnataka state, India. This place is very hot during the summers but has a pleasant weather during the winters. The language of communication here is Kannada. Ilkal was an ancient weaving centre and known for renowned handloom sarees. The main source of income comes from the 'Red granite' which is exported all around the world, while Ilkal sarees are secondary source of income for the people residing over there since generations. The availability of local raw materials helped in the growth of this saree.
Aroma of freshly brewed coffee at home is an inspiration for me in the morning, twenty nine years back, I recalled, my dad saying I bought this 'Wet grinder' from business trip on a way, to my mother and now I'm gone grey, recollecting the past hailing from business backdrop, traveling passionates me and my dad! Generally considered as traditional city, very fine cotton mills are here, well a typical saree made in Coimbatore region is called as 'Kovai Cora cotton' or 'Kovai Kora cotton' sarees. Due to extreme summers and humid climatic here, always one cannot think of wearing heavy silk or just cottons, this led to innovation of 'Coimbatore sico sarees' here. Seamless saree are a best choice of fashion garment, no matter what occasion you are in.
Lotus(Nelumbo Nucifera) is a very ancient water plant. Lotus is one of the popular motifs used in Indian textiles, motifs are generally inspired by nature, human figures, architecture from buildings and animals so on, this flower occupies a unique place in Indian art, textiles, poetry, literature, religions purposes and mythology of ancient India. Although this flower is rooted in mud, it continues to float on the water even after emerging from the mud, it remains unstained! The flower is represented with both its opening and closing petals indicating the ups and downs of life. In fact many Hindus are infatuated with lotus flowers, Gorgeous Lotus are called by varies names such as Kamal, Tavare-gadde, Motunkamal, Utpala, Pundarika, Tamarai and Padma and are found in white, pink, red, purple and blue are found in Asian countries.
I was listening to Keith Urban-Little Bit Of Everything. How pleasant it is ha? I want little bit gold, earthy cotton and lavish silk of everything, flashed me glorious Gadwal saree, which has little bit of everything! Gadwal a place known for harmonious coexistence of the cultures, situated between the rivers 'Tungabhadra' and 'Krishna' of Mahbubnagar district, Telangana state, India.